For a graduate class we were required to research the "material memory" of a historical or contemporary dress-related object and find the meanings the hide in the materials, making, and use of the garment itself. My thesis research is based on costume fandom and cosplay culture (things I love and participate in myself) so I logically gravitated towards the idea of researching an iconic costume that has inspired many in fandom.
I had a few ideas but proximity requirements led me to discover that TIFF Bell Lightbox would be hosting the Tim Burton exhibit originally created for the MoMA. The iconic Edward Scissorhands costume was on my short list of objects for this research project! After conferring with the exhibit coordinator for Toronto, I was able to confirm they would be getting the Edward costume worn by Johnny Depp in the film. I was granted special access to the exhibit before it opened to the public one day and given permission to photograph and sketch the costume! It was amazing to have quality time with the garment, even if it was through plexiglass. Having seen the film many times, I can honestly say the on-screen visuals are only an echo of the intricacies of this garment seen in person. I discovered many things while research this amazing garment, too many to relay now, but I wanted to post on something I discovered that to my knowledge no one has ever discussed until now :) This is an excerpt from my research paper:
"Removing the barrier of being required to view this garment through a film screen enabled the most exciting discovery in this analysis. The left shoulder has a strap containing an antique grosgrain medal (Fig.2) with an intricate shield sporting the initials “EW” in cursive and the word “NONI” on the middle ribbon bar (Fig. 3). Reasonable assumptions point to “EW” as the shortened form of “Edward”, the name his creator gave him. “NONI” does not seem to have particular meaning until considering the personal life of Depp. During filming, co-star Winona Ryder was in a serious relationship with Depp in real life. He, like her close friends and family, fondly used her nickname “Noni”. Burton has personalized the costume for Depp in this way, perhaps even more significantly with the placement above the heart."
All Photo Credits: TM 2012 SMASHWORKS. All Rights Reserved.
How cool is that?? Through my research I really got to see how intensely Burton relates to even single aspect of his work. I will leave you with a quote from Tim Burton himself:
"People don’t realize that everything I’ve ever done has to mean something; even if it’s not clear-cut to anybody else, I have to find some connection, and actually the more absurd the element, the more I have to feel that I understand something behind it."
References:
Burton, Tim and Kristian Fraga. Tim Burton: Interviews. Jackson: U.P. of Mississippi, 2005.
Burton, Tim, and Mark Salisbury. Burton on Burton. London: Faber and Faber, 2006.
Burton, Tim, Ronald S. Magliozzi, and Jenny He. Tim Burton. New York, N.Y: Museum of Modern Art, 2009.
Cawley, Janet. "Little woman, big career. (Cover story)." Biography 1.6 (1997): 24.
